The Mad Italian is an authentic, cozy and unassuming eatery, nestled in Durban North.

This week, we were transported to a “little part of Tuscany”. The moment you enter your senses are shifted to the Italian countryside.

The music gently playing is beautiful and authentic. The scenery painted on the walls and the aroma synonymous with a real-life bustling Italian city, smack your nose. You could be in Rome, Sorrento, or Sicily.

The authenticity flows through into the ambience so cohesively, you can’t help but feel “an air of romance” as you settle into a “little slice of Italy”.

There are the traditional chequered table cloths; the delicate, but so familiar aroma of garlic, thyme and rosemary; and, obviously, the warmth of the Italian accent from the ever-attentive staff and waitrons.

The Mad Italian is undoubtedly well-established among patrons in Durban North and the surrounding suburbs, having been providing faultless, homely, hearty food, varied menus and warm hospitality for many years.

However, in recent months, this gem of a place had lost its spark, its shine, its identity and maybe some of it’s “bellissima”.

So, when we heard there had been a change of ownership, a menu overhaul and the introduction of some much-needed improvement, we couldn’t wait to see if that “amore” was back.

For starters, we decided on some grilled calamari done in lemon butter and served with rice. Calamari is one of those items that must be cooked with precision, attention and experience, because a few seconds either side of perfecto would be like chewing on an old slipper.

Fortunately for us, we were served some delectable, flavourful and perfectly cooked calamari and it was as tender as “an Italian on Valentine’s Day”. The combination of the lemon and garlic butter was so balanced that it created something special in my mouth.

My wife, Kelly, opted for garlic snails (you will find on the menu under the name Lumache con Roquefort.)

Snails are a simple dish, yet this one impressed us with the intense and impactful flavours. The sauce, which sometimes can be too oily and rich, was smooth, balanced and somewhat moreish.

The dish is served with fresh and tasty brown bread soldiers, which you cannot help but indulge in mopping up the amazing sauce (We requested extra bread soldiers, I challenge you to do exactly the same, it is essential.)

Main course: Steak with salad and mushroom sauce

Something that stood out for Kelly and I was, the steady stream of patrons. As you would imagine for such a romantic setting, there several couples.

However, what caught our eye were the families there to enjoy an evening with children, loved ones and friends, soaking in the Italian vibe.

Everyone was greeted with warmth and attention and you could just see, there wasn’t anything that was too much for the team on the floor, or the management team.

This was very impressive, as you hear so many examples of unattentive staff and the lack of management presence.

Now for the main event – I was presented with a tough choice. I was set on sticking with authentic cuisine, and for what The Mad Italian is so well known, pizza or pasta.

However, I was catapulted into a dilemma, being told by the waitress that “I had to try the steaks as their new chef has served up some top-quality dishes with great feedback from clients and was rapidly becoming renowned for his ‘exceptional’ steak dishes”.

Being one not afraid of risk, I trusted the passion in the waitress’ recommendation (hoping it wasn’t just a pitch).

I opted for my steak to be cooked medium. I’m not one to judge anyone for the way they like their meat cooked, so long as it’s not rare chicken.

Planning on a delectable dessert, I opted for the salad as a side, so I could ensure I could review all three courses.

My perfectly coloured, charred, juicy and well presented 300g rump steak arrived, served with a thick and creamy looking mushroom sauce as requested.

The first test is the first cut; I pressed the meat with the knife, from left to right, feeling for its resistance. Just the right give and the right bounce-back, I was excited. My knife ran through it like butter.

The second test is the peek at the inside of the meat. Hoping for pink, moist and well-rested, I was not disappointed. The third is the first bite, well, I think my eyes stayed closed for an eternity. It was insane, how the flavour and tenderness combined, seemed to captivate me for a moment.

Three huge ticks from me,

The wife wasn’t as brave as I was, and opted for something Italian.

Dessert: Chocolate brownie with ice cream

She chose Pasta Malibu. We are so used to the tradition of pesto, Napolitano, Bolognese, that I was instantly intrigued at the splash of Malibu liquor as a base ingredient in this dish.

The pasta dish consisted of tender strips of chicken and a creamy sauce that one could easily bottle and take away for your home-made pasta dishes. The hint of chilli gave it just the right amount of bite to complement the coconut/Caribbean kick from the Malibu and the dish benefited from the superb pasta.

I got all this from just a few bites as my wife gave me that look to say “hey… this pasta was my order”.

Dessert was an easy choice, but this we were going to share as we were both so full from the starters and mains that we couldn’t indulge in too much more food.

The Châteaux Gâteaux chocolate brownie served with ice cream was our choice and I don’t think I need to describe the taste of any Châteaux Gâteaux product as they are all extraordinary.

IMRAN OMAR

Knockout dishes at Butcher Block

The Mad Italian is a "little slice of Italy"

Relish waves of taste